Kodak c 41 process manual#

The booklet in the Tetanal kit says nothing about a final rinse and some people just hang the film to dry with the Stab foam still on it. I now normally add some drops of wetting agent, but this is up to you. Now you can open your tank and take a look. After this minute, put the Stab back and go rinse the film again. Stab foams so much, I never move it because I think there would just be more foam. Just leave it like this for about a minute. Sorry for that lame pun! Put the tank on a steady surface and pour in the Stab. After this, it’s Stab time! No! No daggers, no knives. I normally do this 12 times, since it takes about 30 seconds each time. I normally proceed this way: fill the tank, inverse it 10 times, pour out the water and repeat. When you put the BX back into its bottle, you‘ll need warm, running water. Pour in the BX and do the exact same thing as before. About 10 seconds before time runs out, pour the CD back into its bottle, put the tank down, close the bottle, and put it back if you want to do a second roll later (or put it into storage). It will also help the water in the tank flow around and stay same temperature - your heater is of no use if you only heat up the still water around the heater while the rest cools off.

This will first help you use all the chemicals, not only the parts next to your film. Put the tank back into the water bath and just move it around there gently. Close the tank and put the funnel in the bottle. The time starts when you start pouring it.

Kodak c 41 process manual#

You will have your manual at your side, so you will always be able to check how long each part of the process will take.įirst off, pour the CD into your tank. This can vary between minutes and an hour, depending on various factors. We skip the part where you wait to get the right temperature. After you’ve loaded up the film, put the tank into the water bath as well. I won‘t explain the rest since there are tons of tutorials on this out there. As you probably know, no light should get to the film. You do not need it, but better be safe than sorry. I only use the trash bag because I can trust that there is no dust in it. You take the scissors, the film and the tank, put them into the trash bag, and then put the trash bag under your bed’s blanket. Load your film into the development tank. You can speed up this process by adding hot water or adding cold water, but I like to just naturally heat up the water using the heater. After doing this a few times, you will likely know how warm it has to be and you will be able to guesstimate the exact temperature. You’ll have to wait a little while until everything in the bucket is 86☏.

It’s crucial that you keep control over the water’s temperature, because there is basically no tolerance in temperature for the process. Also, put the thermometer and the aquarium heater into it and fill the bucket with warm water. Mix them according to the manual in the package and pour each part (CD for Color Developer, BX for Bleach/Fix and Stab for Stabilisator) into one bottle. I use 500ml working solution, which means I can keep the 1 liter kit for twice as long. You can slow this process down if you get yourself a Tetenal Protectant Spray, which puts a film of gas (heavier than air, lighter than water) on top of your chemicals without affecting their ability to process. They will oxidate and go bad faster if you leave bottles open and so on. Third, try to avoid useless air-contact with your chemicals.